summer skiing

Yesterday we headed back into the mountains, a route I recognised and was excited to take.  Back to Lou Rider, high in the Pyrenees to visit Claire and see the chalet in the summer sun.  The whole area had a different feel, the summer holidays, roads were busy with cars packed with people.  Caravans and campervans, badly driven, argued with massive trucks on the narrow winding roads through villages and struggling up steep mountain passes. The fields were lush and green and the snow capped peaks that I remembered, naked rock, glinting in the summer sun.  Not a complete transformation, but  a surface change, like a redecorated room or a picture seen in a different light. 

The chalet had not changed one bit, yet looked different in its lush green surroundings, the winter gray banished and almost half a year away.  The winter snow equipment looking strangely out of place and useless, as cows and sheep grazed peacefully on piste routes and under ski lifts that I remembered from my last visit.  Thousands of people must do the same each year, but it felt quite special and different to see my winter playground without its thick white carpet of snow.

After a quick stop to say ‘Hi’ to Claire and see the chalet, we drove up the mountain and parked in a familiar spot, the 11 minute gondola lift took over twenty minutes in the car, following the route of a blue ski run that I had taken so many times last year.  The dark tunnel under ‘Mirabelle’, doubling as a bit of shelter for the cows on their summer pasture.  The whole summer, winter transformation of the high pastures means so much more to me now that I have seen footage of how the farmers and shepherds carry out their work and the impact of the changing of the seasons on the movements of rural mountain life.  Skiing must bring some welcome cash to these poor, remote areas and welcome employment for those who have little to do during the dark winter months.  

Our plan was to hike a short distance on the GR10.  A mere stroll compared to its whole length.  Starting on the Atlantic coast, this famous trail winds its way through the Pyrenean mountain range, ending up on the shores of the Mediterranean sea.  It takes weeks to complete as a whole and people return to the region year after year in order to do it in stages.  I guess I should get a map and mark on my one completed section now.  Our section was relatively flat with some stunning scenery.  The first section, across the bowl that is St Lary Soulain Ski Domaine during the winter months, then round following the contours round a ridge into an adjacent valley high up above a lake.  The water a deep blue green, nestling between shores of dumpy alpine pines and scrubby juniper way down in the valley.  Tiny people could be spotted heading this way and that, completing their days activities, out in the wild mountain ranges, mere dots against the massive backdrop of ancient rocky landscape.  We headed slightly up hill across fairly open terrain and over a small ridge to reach our lunchtime destination.  A morraine dammed lake of deep crystal clear water.  We knew that there would be a few people there from the number of cars in the carpark, but we were not prepared for precisely how many.  Almost the complete shoreline was taken, groups of picnickers evenly spaced with their baguettes, cheeses and bottles of wine, relaxing in the summer sun after a good mornings walk.  Thankfully we were late and most of the groups were rested and eager to continue on their way.  By the time we had chosen a spot, scrambled there and decanted our provisions, the throng were dissipating, throughout our meal more headed off and the mountain side became quiet and  peaceful again.  The water was shockingly cold, probably due to the depth of the lake and because of the addition of late melt from a significant fall back in May.  Vanessa managed to immerse herself momentarily but decided that it was too cold to swim.  I cooled my feet which was cold enough by far.

Scattered cloud made the walk much more pleasant than had the sky been clear blue all day.  Enough sun to make everything look great

The two and a half your return walk was slightly lengthened as the police checked the mountainside from a low flying helicopter.  It traversed the region several times, popping back up from below frighteningly close to the ground with a thundering racket in a rather menacing fashion. We wondered what it would be like in times of war to be chased by such a machine, and, more immediately, who they could possibly be looking for. Our conclusion that it was someone from ETA on the run. The walk back continued to bring back memories of last winter and a stream of virtual skiing  possibilities.  The pistes look far steeper now than when they are covered in snow, and the bits imbetween that I remember throwing myself down with excitement, almost too steep to be possible.  Snow must do strange things to perspective and meddle with ones eyes.  

It was lovely to see Claire again, and in much better spirits than I remember her during the winter.  Hopefully the difficulties that must have beset her back then are well and truly in the past.  Chester, the dog, however, had become uncertain again, probably not surprising after a constant stream of guests this last few months, not to mention the continuing helpX assistance in the chalet, he leaped about and barked wildly then decided all wasn’t right and headed off to a safe distance to survey us unthreatened.

no kitten pictures

I escaped the crazy life of the mountains earlier on in the week and have spent a couple of fun packed days with Vanessa and Lisa again.  Yves, a friend of Nellie’s offered me a lift to St Gaudens when he left the village on Monday, which was nearly to where I needed to be.  A short hitch and a phone call and I was collected from the centre of town.

There was much excitement when I arrived as there is a new addition to the household, a small black kitten that apparently escaped from a recently collapsed barn and took refuge with them.  Very timid and quite lost, but demanding for food and attention in a scared yet persistent sort of way.  Already named, ‘Brian’ is just about touchable and I think will soon be in complete control of everyone else on the property.  She sleeps on the seat on an ancient tractor in the open barn and mews incessantly when hungry, supposedly a farm cat for mice and snakes, she gets a rich and varied diet from the kitchen.

During my last visit, we had picked up the details of a local garden that is open to the public by appointment so we decided to give it a viewing.  Quite excellent and not that old.  It was amazing to see how mature some of the plantings have become in just 19 years.  I was trying to imagine how big things would have looked back in England and reckon that they are a good third larger here.  It was a rambling place with a variety of themed areas including a bamboo collection, medieval gardens, large potager and plenty of art, sculpture and pottery dotted through the gardens.  Some good ideas for the future for all of us and a great place to spend an afternoon.  Shame I have no idea of the name, else I would leave a link or further details.  We stopped for a drink in Aurignac and caught the sunset from  the old tower at the top of the village, I remembered being there last year for a concert, Rock and Roll covers with very french accents. Had a quiet meal back at the farmhouse and ended the day with a “treat” of some english TV.

Dir. Massat

Cat, Freddie and I took an afternoon off from the building site, borrowed the hippy car and went for a drive in the mountains.  We decided that we didn’t need to go for a walk of any size due to the fact that we had pulled and chopped wood for most of the previous day and had had plenty of exercise.

They are both Law students, studying a combined French English Law Degree.  The first two years of the course are in London and the second two years in Paris, so they are in france to improve their language skills.  Enthusiastic and great fun, they are up for trying all the tasks here, up on the roof, pulling wood, pointing, although the heavier tasks are taking their toll on the young desk bound students.

We chose a route that took us over a couple of high passes and through remote small towns and villages.  Caught glimpses of ski lifts and buildings looking strangely out of place in their summer pastures, herds of cows wandering the hills accompanied by the incessant clanging of the huge bells that they wear round their necks paragliders rising on thermals and playing in the wind, a 2CV, crumble down ruins, people having picnics in the oddest of places and some absolutely stunning scenery.  

What a great way to spend an afternoon, relaxing and sight seeing at the same time. 

building renovations

Sorry to post such a disappointing post about Sex in the Garden.  Unfortunately I have nothing more exciting to report on that front.   There is a weekend party at Nicholas in a couple of weeks time, with two french gay rugby teams and a whole load of English guys.  I have planned my itinerary so that a return visit is en route to my next hosts.

I strangely find myself 'home alone' in the Pyrenees.  My hosts have gone away for a few days and I have the house to myself and a car at my disposal, so life is good.  Will head for the hills as soon as the weather clears for some mountain air and a good bit of hiking.  No doubt the sun will reappear and the temperatures will rise to the mid thirties again which will be a welcome change after nearly a week of cloud and storms and cold weather.

Have been busy here with all sorts of full of projects.  On the evening of my arrival I found myself on the roof helping Martin complete some roof tiling, the first side of two roofs are is now complete after several days work.  Assisting with cutting, shaping and fitting window surrounds made out of green oak and secured into their openings in an ancient stone building that they are renovating here.

We have pulled tree trunks out of the woods and down an old track to be cut for firewood.  Using the traditional method of nailing an iron pin with metal loop into the end of the trunk and securing a length of rope, then running like a madman down a steep track, guiding the wood and keeping the momentum going until you get to the bottom.  The wood is then cut and loaded onto the truck and taken back to the house and left for two years to dry so that it burns well.  Strange to be cutting wood for burning in the winter of 1012. 

Stacking, transporting and unloading of roof slates, the slates needed on the second side of the roof were hoisted up on pallets by an old and temperamental  crane, unloaded by hand and stacked on walking boards on the roof timbers.  A certain calmness and concentration was needed to take the piles of slate from the pallet dangling above the building and place them correctly so that they were well supported and safe on the roof until they are needed.  The crane is leaving site soon, so plenty of lifting jobs are being completed before its departure.

Repointing of the old stone walls is an ongoing task and takes an age.  The finish is striking and quite different to the work I have been involved with in the past.  The lime based mix is applied to a moistened wall by means of a giant syringe, it ensures that the deep cracks are well filled and all the joints are covered.  The mix is then smoothed onto all sides of the stones by gloved hand to ensure good adhesion and then left to dry for about 12 hours.  Once the mix has ‘gone off’ a bit, any excess or untidy mix can be cleaned away with a wire brush to give the desired finish.  

sex in the garden

The girls are starting to learn about seed saving and how cross pollination of similar species can alter the outcome of the resultant seeds and how to minimise associated problems.

Many types of vegetables can be grown to produce seed without any special treatment or isolation, whilst others need to be grown away from other varieties or protected from insects to stop transfer of pollen from unwanted parents.

Whilst i was there, they needed to pollinate a specific pumpkin variety so that they can save the seed for future seasons.  The female flower was located whilst in bud, it was covered with a stocking.  This allowed the flower to open whilst restricting insect visitors.  Once the flower was completely open, pollen from a male flower was artificially transferred by hand from a couple of suitable inflorescences to the protected female flower.  

The stocking was removed and the revealed anther of the male flower wiped over the stigma within the female flower to transfer as much pollen as possible before the stocking was replaced.  The female flower will continue to grow and produce its resultant pumpkin fertilized only by the flower that was selected.  Seed taken from this pumpkin should, in theory, be true to its parent plant.

The process was carried out early in the morning to maximise the volume of pollen in the male flower and also to minimise risk of inadvertent cross pollination by transfer of pollen grains from one male flower to another before being transferred to the female. To be sure that the female parts were ready to receive the pollen, the whole process was repeated on three successive mornings.

time out from helpX

Vanessa and Lisa had become good friends last winter as they visited Lou Rider on several occasions and had helped out there previously.  We always had a laugh when they visited the chalet and were great fun.  They had invited me to call in and stay whenever I wanted, so I took them up on their kind offer and dropped by for a few days between HelpX hosts. 

“You don’t have to work, you don’t have to cook, just relax, chill and do what you want.  If we go out, you can come with us or stay home, use the internet, play with the dog, help yourself to anything from the fridge.”  I couldn’t really go wrong with an offer like that although I did help in the garden and I did cook and I did go out with them and I did have a fabulous time. 

They are searching for the right place to buy in France and taking life at a very leisurely  pace at the moment, renting an old farmhouse about an hour south of Toulouse with a wonderful view of the Pyrenees in the distance and surrounded by farmland.  Now and again they venture out to view a property but on the whole they are just enjoying the view and a laid back way of life.

When I started to arrange how to get to my next host they stepped in and offered to take me to the door.  After studying the map, it was decided that there was an excellent walk just up the road and the whole thing was a great excuse for a day out.

sharing with Vinko

Sharing with Vinko, the Swedish helpXer of Croatian origin has been interesting.  he keeps himself to himself and does as he pleases.  I cook, he comes to eat in the summer kitchen with a headful of interesting conversations,  all of the utmost importance for the moment and deep and relevant to the workings of the world.  If there is football on the TV he takes his plate and excuses himself, explaining that he has something important to do on the internet, otherwise we try and discuss an array of topics.  Why does the western world continue to provide food aid to developing countries when it would be cheaper to teach them how to build dams and provide themselves with food.  How is it that the US won’t leave Iraq or Afghanistan even though they are not wanted there and it is costing their government billions of dollars?  How come technology is better for fighting machines and jets that with anything else, wouldn’t they make more money if they used it in civilian machines? Shouldn’t all houses be built to the highest environmental standards with solar panels and ultra efficient insulation?  Everything is a ‘huge tragedy’ or a ‘stupid big mistake’.  Dinner over, he washes up and goes back to the cottage where he is installed.  he is busy working there renovating, I have been slightly involved but he seems happier on his own and wants a young helper who will do what he is told without discussion, just as he has done in the past.  Fine by me, I have quite enough work in the garden, sanding tables , preparing food and listening to Innes’ stories.

Margot turned up a couple of days ago, to cook and clean and take over the gardening once I leave.  She is a Russian, from Latvia, with an interesting past.  Conversation is difficult as she has only been speaking english for 3 weeks.  She learned in school, some 30 years ago, but has never spoken English before.  There is a huge vocabulary but not much grammar and discussions often end up with much laughter as she ties herself in verbal knots.  A childhood spent with a grandfather who was a phytotherapist, and a soviet early life, transition into the european way of life. three ex husbands, businesses run and sold and recent losses through the financial crash that has hit Baltic states much harder than we ever get to know.  Incomes slashed by 60 - 70% whilst prices stay the same,  similar to those in Western Europe.  She bought a flat for 80000 euro and had to fore close after her income was slashed, the bank repossessed and said it was only worth 17000 and demands the remaining money back.  No Chance.  Two weeks later she is in France, speaking English and having an adventure, hopefully funded by a glossy magazine back home, though she won’t return for a while as the bank will be after her.  It would be great to catch up again in the future as her stories were so interesting but such an effort through the language barrier.

One day later, Ally arrives.  I go with Innes to Rodez airport to spot him in the crowd and make sure he doesn’t get lost.  Vinko has a helper at last.  Atwenty two year old university student, as keen as he is green and ready for a summer of hard work sunshine and a bit of French culture.  He might get most, and plenty of good food, but with a Crotian Swede, a Russian Latvian and a the most English French lady I have ever met, am not sure that the culture will be pure French.