two months away

Wow, that was over to months ago, my last posting.  I did go to the UK, I spent a wonderful month visiting family and friends, catching up with folk and generally escaping the worst of the wet, cold weather here and waiting for the spring to commence so that I can get on with planting and more clearing work.

On my return I brought with me a ‘flu like no other I have ever experienced.  It really knocked me for six.  I spent the better part of two weeks in bed, mainly aseep and toe following ten days or so on a very slow recovery.  I am pretty much fit and well now, happy that it was only ‘flu rather than anything more serious, but things like that certainly bring home the fact that we are not invincible and that change can arrive without warning in any manner of guises.

I am hugely grateful to my neighbour, Heather, who packed me off to bed in her big warm house and told me I was welcome to stay as long as necessary to get me back on my feet and well enough to resume my camping lifestyle.  She’s let me be, not fussing or bothering overly, but giving me the space and time to recover under my own steam, insisting that I do less than I wanted to during the early days so as not to cause a downturn in progress yet making sure that all was well.  It’s been a resounding success.

This last few days I have been up to strength, albeit with shorter days, and have tested my abilities by helping out around the garden here, doing a bit of pruning and planting twelve fruit trees in the orchard area of Heather’s garden.  All has faired well and now I am back on my land attacking knee high weeds in th vegetable garden and planning what to sow first, where and how.  

Do I go for direct planting in my heavy soil, probably with a bit of soil improvement, or into pots first, with the extra challenge of transplanting and watering issues later on in the season.  I’ll probably do a mixture of both, just to be sure.  The sun is shining again and the soil surface is dry enough to produce a fine tilth.  Better get on with it now before it hardens to rock or becomes a soggy mess again if it rains.

we holidayed as well

We dined with my new neighbours, spent a morning browsing an antiques and collectibles fair, had a mini trip to Spain through the Pyrenees to stock up on cheap wine and food with a tapas lunch.  A night back at Chalet Lou Rider courtesy of my friend Pierre who is now caretaker for the new owners, with a gentle stroll in the mountains where we picnicked and enjoyed a stupendous view in the sunshine. 

As Peter leaves, the major build is complete, leaving me roof insulation to figure out a few bits of trim and then the instillation of woodburning stove.  All projects that I can attack on my own.  It’s been brilliant to have him here to help, we’ve got on fabulously, as ever and enjoyed getting things done.  Dad too has kept us on the ball, helping as much as he could and adding his suggestions and advice throughout the build.  It’s been great having them here and after the initial shock everything went wonderfully well, Dad taking everything in his stride.  What an excellent ten days.

chalet/shed construction

tyre pillars and weed suppressant ready construction

my foundation platform nearing completion

creating a more comfortable toilet seat!!

getting things organised

lots of wood, no instructions

up it goes

right to the roof

discussing progress

me (with the hat on) and my bro

The cabin, chalet, shed, whatever it’s going to be called, progressed at an astounding rate.  We constructed my foundations then started on the huge parcels of wood that had been delivered.  The instructions were scant to say the least so we guessed and tested as we went.  Thankfully the engineering was brilliant.  The vast majority of parts fitted together without forcing, snugly and without difficulty, the planks were well finished and the walls went up like a dream.  We guessed with the door and window instillation, leaving me with a bit of post construction snagging, especially on the additional window opening for which there were no instructions whatsoever, but overall it was a great experience.  

surprise visit

I arrived at Toulouse early to do some shopping and do a bit of scavanging.  I needed pallets to sort the wood for the new build onto and to keep it dry whilst it was being built.  I was lucky and fair filled the van with nearly as many as I could, something stopped me from filling the back completely, though I was close to doing so.  I reached the airport to collect Peter in good time, the plane was slightly delayed, so I had time to park up and go inside to meet him.  He was waiting for his luggage and suggested that he catch up with me in the car park so as to minimise the time that I waited.  As he was arranging his luggage in the back of the van I prepared to head off, conscious that I was in a limited parking zone and every minute counted.  As he started to close the door, a voice asked “Room for another one?”  I swung round to see who it was, half recognising the voice, to see my Dad standing there with a big grin on his face.  Momentarily I was mortified.  How was it going to work?  Where was he going to sleep?  How was he going to cope with my minimal lifestyle?  (No electricity, no hot water, no proper toilet, no real facilities?) I was stressed enough as it was with the preparations for receiving my brother, let alone an 85 year old.  I forced the practicalities and logistics out of my mind and focussed on the fact that my father was there, completely unannounced and it was wonderful to see him.  I had planned to be a bit further on before he visited, but from that moment I had no choice, he was there and was coming with us.  I was dumbstruck as we left the airport, trying to make conversation, whilst my mind raced on what changes I would have to make and wondering how the next ten days were to pan out. My neighbours had offered a room. There was a B & B just down the road, I wondered if they had a room and how much it would cost.  What would my Dad do every day?  Would I have chance to really spend time with my brother?  Would he be comfortable? warm enough? cool enough? How would my alternative (nearing vegan) diet be appreciated? Would he manage with the terrain? Could we still manage the trips I had planned?  My mind whirred with a thousand questions whilst on the surface I tried to chat about the journey, how the flight was, and what had been going on since we had last spoken.

Peter sat in the back, almost squashed by pallets, relishing every moment.  I had surprised him several times in the past with unannounced visits and this was payback time.  There he was, in view via the rear view mirror, watching as I came to terms with this new arrangement finding it all rather amusing.  I negotiated the urban motorway system out of Toulouse without fault, my mind going nineteen to the dozen, pointing out things that might be interesting, trying to plan ahead, deciding what to do.  We journeyed back to Vieuzos stopping en route to do a bit of last minute shopping, disappointingly there was no view of the mountains, just a band of hazy cloud in the distance.  They had no idea how spectacular that view could be.  Something they would hopefully discover on a clearer day.

no skiing this christmas

My plans haven’t been going to plan since I last wrote, but it’s all worked out extraordinarily well.  I had been invited to work on constructing a wooden house back in October, but a few days before I was due to arrive, heard that the owner wasn’t there at all, but working away on a humanitarian project on an island in the Indian Ocean.  Thankfully I emailed to confirm.

By chance I had called in to see Cherry and Chris the week before, hosts that I had stayed with in 2010, just to see how they were and they said that they were in need of help should I become free. I said I’d let them know but didn’t imagine things would change before early next year.  One mail later my plans changed and I returned to Las Bourges and a new project that is probably going to last me well into 2014.

More tree planting to start with, along with remodeling a garden, putting in hedges and reclaiming the potager from an autumn of neglect.  I initially suggested a couple of weeks, but their location is excellent in regards to my proposed purchase.  About half an hour away from the land, twenty minutes from the notaires and in the right area for discovering everything I may need in the future.  In addition, Cherry used to be a property dealer, so knows all the ins and outs of buying land, how to approach negotiations and speaks very well the french.  We have had plenty of interesting discussions and I have modified my requirements for proceeding with the purchase with her guidance.  To keep me here for longer, there are a variety of interesting and challenging opportunities to help on their latest venture.

Their project is half an hour away in the other direction.  A new house purchase, well, an old farmhouse in need of much renovation and alteration that they intend to move to next spring.  Initially they’ll live in a converted outbuilding whilst being on site to oversee renovations and keep an eye on things as work progresses.  Their current address is sold, so will need to be vacated fairly early in 2014.  Once I’ve got the major planting and garden maintenance up to date, I’m hoping to work along side Ben and Mattieu as they install wiring and plumbing in the barn conversion, help with continued construction work and maybe even finishing if I stay around long enough.  I’ll learn plenty, get to practice my french whilst on the building site and have time to concentrate on my own project.  The woodworking’ll have to come at a later date.

It’s slightly unnerving being so calm and relaxed over Christmas after the last four years in the chalet.  I do wonder how they’re all getting on up there in the mountains and the snow and have the occasional pang of nostalgia, though with my long term project about to start feel happy to have the mountains in the distance and a calmer workload to contend with.  No mornings with thirty beds to change, or sacks of spuds to peel, or mountains of ironing to contend with, no digging snow and waiting tables or mending broken toilets and taps.  I've been missing the camaraderie, the clients, the snow and the skiing, but the calm is lovely.

Instead I have a more regular timetable, with chickens to feed, Suzy the dog to walk, wood to fetch and frequently, a house to mind, as Chris and Cherry travel frequently for business and are often away.  Free time to chill with a book or walk in the countryside, the weather has been amazing.  Cold and clear with wonderfully warm afternoons in the sunshine, great for gardening and getting things planted.

Christmas has been great, christmas day, a family affair, with a smoked salmon, scrambled egg and bucks fizz breakfast, plenty of snacking and a delicious main meal starting with a hot asian prawn salad, followed by beef wellington and finished off with traditional english christmas pudding all washed down with plenty of suitable wine chosen by Chris, a veritable connoisseur.  That saw us good for the rest of the day save a slice of cake early evening when other members of the family arrived for present exchanging.  A lovely relaxed time with folk coming and going, popping out with Chris and Cherry to shop for plants whilst the weather is being kind and the bare root stock is still available.  More delicious meals, a choice of english or french TV, a real treat as I hardly see the screen whilst I’m away, walks, chats and plenty of fresh air.

It’s been quiet on the property purchase front, I expect that everyone is otherwise occupied through the festive season, but I do hope to have news as we head into January that things are proceeding. 

It’s New year’s Eve as I write.  Home alone again just with the dog for company.  We’ve had a good long walk in the sunshine this morning, I’ve prepared dessert and Simon, who I’ve probably mentioned before in my writings, a great english guy who keeps himself busy on building projects and traditional style restorations, is turning up in a while to welcome the New Year in.  He’s picking up a rabbit on the way, we’ll drink and prepare and cook and drink, chat about allsorts and probably watch a bit of TV and toast 2014 as it arrives.  Happy New Year to each and every one of you, may you be healthy, wealthy and wiser through the coming year.  Embrace and enjoy it all with my love.  xx

27 november

November 27th. A day, this year, that I wasn’t particularly looking forward to.  In the past it had been a day of celebration, my Mothers’ Birthday, a day that I always tried to be at home for, but as she had passed away earlier in the year I was not so sure how I would feel at this time.  Additionally I had a dental appointment for a wisdom tooth extraction and the weather was foul.  Just warm enough to be raining but bitterly cold, windy.  What a day it was going to be.

Percy managed the descent without so much as a shudder and felt much better on flatter ground.   I had time to stop in at the estate agents to discuss the land with the ruins that I had seen before and clarified a few points.  Suffered the french dentist with much less pain and discomfort that I had been led to believe (the noise of the tooth leaving the jaw bone was the worst part) and some excellent advice - to take pain killers  as the anaesthetic wears off before the onset of pain as it is easier to keep the pain at bay than to dissipate it after it has arrived.  I dislike taking pain killers, but on this occasion was more than happy to take his advice and it worked a treat.  

Slightly numb, I revisited the land at Vieuzos, with the huge oak tree, discovered the real site of the well, with it’s huge concrete safety cover, located more fruit trees and paid much more attention to the ruins and their possible future uses.  The space felt good again, better in fact than the first visit, it is ticking loads of boxes and has character, something that most of the plots I look at lack, definitely one to persue further. The rain held off whilst I visited and later in the day, rays of sunlight streamed through a distant gap in the clouds, illuminating the hazy landscape beneath, as if angels were shining lights from above, letting me know that life was rosy on the other side.  I continued north for a while, aiming for my good friends Vanessa and Lisa in their new abode to see how the renovations were coming along and to help with the planting of two hundred trees.   All in all a much better day than I had expected.

memories of portugal

I couldn't capture the brilliant, star filled night skies

or the absolute silence of the valley

but these are a few of the views that I did....

sunset from the hills

a whole ear of corn sprouting after a shower of rain

container gardening with a difference

the local village to my brothers house

Me, Dad and Windy (Peter)

the river beach at Açor

reflections

quinta libelula

Still, we got there in the day.  I had sent a text to say we were on our way in and as we arrived, stopped to send another, Peter emerged in his 4x4, ready for the ride down his newly installed track to the house.  It was a good twenty minutes by foot before.  Luxury of a different kind.

I had tried to prepare Joy for our visit, but after a tour of the property, realised that I had not done a very good job. It was on steeper terrain, with more precipitous drops off narrow, uneven paths, more basically equipped, far more remote, with high unfenced terraces (some easily 8 metres) about the place.  She did amazingly well and later, after talking with my brother, discovered that NO ONE who has visited has embraced the spirit of the place without at least a day or so acclimatisation.  It is steep, uneven, almost inaccessible in a beautifully forested valley with no neighbours, only the noise of the birds and trickle of water in the stream, sheltered from winds from most directions, incredibly still and tranquil.  The little house has solar electricity and a solar heated shower, a fully functioning compost toilet, the freshest spring water piped direct to the kitchen, a functional terrace with tables and chairs, a beautiful view over one of the vegetable gardens, olive grove, forest and valley.  

The ground is being progressively cleared and I was amazed by the progress that had been made since my last visit a year ago.  We could walk from one end of the property to the other at valley floor level, via seven terraces of varying sizes.  The ancient irrigation system and much of the flat areas have been completely cleared of impenetrable bramble thicket, revealing more and more olive trees, ancient vines and other fruit trees.  A magnificent cork oak that had lain unnoticed for decades revealed in all its splendor.  Two terraces of vegetables planted harvested and restarted for the winter, chickens, goats and even a trout have arrived during the last twelve months.  The house has been re-roofed and re-floored inside and the upstairs is completely livable until the rest gets done.  

Whilst I was there, Dad visited for a couple of weeks.  We were all rather concerned with how he would cope before his arrival, especially after hearing stories of others that have visited, even for short periods of time. We needn’t have worried, he managed admirable and frequently surprised himself with his achievements on the exploratory front.  He coped with the vegetarian diet with easily and went home with renewed vigour and a determination to get out and do more, get a rail card, visit friends and places he’s never seen.  I sure hope he does.

my bedroom for a month 

4x4 on the new track with house roof visible to the left 

the yellow brick road, I built that

unlikely best mates

new improved 'facilities'

trying to get things into scale

newly cleared access to opposite gives new perspective

Dad and Windy surveying the latest clearing work "Goat terrace"

vegetables in for the winter

london, dover, calais and on

I left Dronfield, and my Dad in good spirits and headed off in Percy on a great adventure.  Headed south to pick up some bits from my brothers house and stock up from the amazing asian supermarket whilst I had the opportunity.  Called in on other family, friends from college, old work colleagues and family friends whilst heading south, spending a good week catching up with folk around my home town of Salisbury.  Then on to London, more friends and framily and to pick up two lovely passengers for the first stage of my journey  abroad.  The sense of freedom with transport was wonderful, not only easy movement from one place to the next, but with all my home comforts on board as well, a truly liberating venture.

I want to write loads, of all the lovely people I reconnected with, the stories we shared and memories that have been reawakened, but I’ll save those for that novel someday and keep speeding along with the story.  Needless to say, it has been wonderful to spend time with so many people, I send love to you all.  Those that I missed, I send love to you too and will endeavour to catch you next time.

With Tania, a great friend of over 20 years and her 4 year old daughter Alix, we are heading down France, with no specific plan apart than, to meet Jacqueline, Tania’s partner, in Carcassonne in a couple of weeks time.  We’ll go with the flow and see where the days take us.  

Sat nav at the ready, not that I’ve ever used one before, it was a bit of a treat as I know how difficult it is to find places and I fear for my safety trying to map read and drive at the same time.  (Garmin, latterly known as Charmin Garmin as he never gets annoyed, is a bit particular, though exceedingly good at finding destinations.  The more we use him the better it gets)

Day 1

London to Dover

Dover - Calais thankfully the sea was calm as I can feel queasy just thinking about being on board a boat.  We watched England’s white cliffs shrink away behind us and the coast of France loom.  

It was great to have a good walk on deck and blow away the cobwebs.

Calais towards Bologne sur Mer, though after an hour or so, decided that it was too far along the coast road after our early evening crossing and stopped short, camping in a farm field for the first night.

Alix’s bed stretched across the forward seats, a fat chunk of foam wrapped in a duvet cover.  The curtains wrapping round the dash to keep the night time well and truly outside, Tania and me on the huge expanse of fold out cushioning in the back.  A great start.

Percy in the shadow of the white cliffs of Dover 

England in the distance,  leaving the clouds behind us

Tania and Alix clearing the cobwebs, Calais behind

Day 2

We got to Boulogne sur Mer and stopped on the clifftops for lunch, looking out over the Channel under the flight path of some very low flying parasenders who were flying on the updraught of the cliffs.  A friendly fellow vanner suggested heading down the coast to St Valery Sur Somme which is where we ended for the night.  Camping de la Croix l’Abbe.  Our first campsite that was a blend of static caravans, cabins, caravans, tents and motor homes.  It all felt a bit new and weird to be setting up and sorting out amongst everyone else, not being a seasoned camper, but as I write two weeks later, am way over that now.  There were other van things that we were still getting used to too, like preparing meals, toilet facilities, getting ready for the night and packing it all away again.  It just needed a bit of routine and encouraging everyone to help.  

The countryside was rolling hills with great coastal views, tiny villages and interesting things to spot.  Alix seemed to have a nap soon after we headed each time and that was to come in very handy later on.

paragliding on the cliffs of Boulogne sur Mer

Day 3

Tania and I looked at the map early on and were shocked to see what little progress we had made, vowed to head off early and make progress.  After breakfast in a cafe down by the harbour we finally hit the road at just gone midday.  Alix fell asleep and I stepped on the gas.  We tried the autoroute for a while which was great, though it ate euros at a surprising rate so we slipped off and joined the old route nationals.  The countryside was flat, the roads straight as straight and suddenly the miles slipped away.

With sleeping child in the back we left Abbeyville, got diverted through the centre of Rouen, my first big city driving on the other side of the road in Percy,  hairy at times but fine, we caught a glimpse of the cathedral, river and several interesting buildings but decided to keep going.  Sleeping child.  Evreux came and went the same way and Dreux loomed as Alex woke.  We promised playgrounds and ice creams, not knowing what we’d find, parked up and had an energetic hour or so in the shadows of the cathedral making great use of the local childrens facilities and eating the best ice creams ever.

Cathedral of Evreux

ice cream heaven

Tania in ice cream heaven

Charmin Garmin did well and found us a campsite for the night, one with full facilities which were very welcome.  We ordered fresh croissants to be delivered for breakfast and had a very peaceful night in the countryside again.

unexpected detour

I said good bye to my hosts last Wednesday, and to Julien and Vivien too.  It is definitely the end of any project together, the three thing was just too difficult, though I would be more than happy if Julien were to end up with a plot of land next to mine.  One of my most enjoyable and eye opening visits of my journey so far.  So many things achieved, so many things possible, with an open heart and a sense of sharing and participation for everyone who visits, what a great place.  I am sad to leave.

Though on what an adventure.  My brother has been hankering for me to visit him since he moved earlier this summer, though I have declined, believing that his new life is his project and he should decide what route he needs to take.  He had a dramatic journey by car from the Midlands to his new home, with break-downs causing his journey to take over two  weeks rather than the 48 hours originally planned, though that is another story.  

He moved to Portugal earlier this year, to a large plot of land in which stands a ruin and the remnants of some very productive horticultural land.  I am aching to visit to see what he has bought with his partner MIchael and am already desparately telling myself not to get too involved.  I know that they have a list a million questions long for me and I can’t wait to hear their stories, see the land and stay with them in their tiny caravan and help out for the next three weeks.  There is no phone, no WIFI, no electricity or running water, it’s back to basics and from all accounts, so far, they are loving every moment of their new life.  Watch this space for what I discover, as I shall update you when I return to the modern world.